Rolex Revives Padellone Watch
Rolex Revives Historic Padellone With New Annual Calendar and Advanced Movement
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Key Points
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The Padellone is one of only two Rolex watches historically equipped with a triple-calendar and moon-phase display; the other is the 36mm Oyster-cased Ref. 6062.
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Calibre 7190 adds a high-tech ceramic balance wheel and a refined Paraflex shock-absorption system, and its slimmer construction helps keep the finished watch to 12.20mm thick.
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Rolex has made the collector-given nickname “Padellone” official for the new model, rather than merely using it as an informal historical reference to Ref. 8171.
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The instantaneous calendar mechanism includes a unidirectional coupling that allows the gearing to slip if the watch is wound backward, helping prevent damage to the movement.
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The launch coincides with the centenary of Rolex’s Oyster case and represents the brand’s first return to the complication category in more than 70 years, according to Revolution Watch.
Rolex has revived one of its rarest vintage models with the new Perpetual Padellone, a 39mm dress watch inspired by the oversized Ref. 8171 from the late 1940s and 1950s. Watches by SJX reports the watch marks Rolex's first major complication in over 70 years, featuring an annual calendar, moon phase display, and the brand's new Calibre 7190 movement with a 66-hour power reserve.
The Perpetual Padellone displays the day and month through apertures, the date with a central hand, and moon phases using meteorite discs at 6 o'clock. Man of Many notes the new in-house movement uses Rolex's Haplos calendar system, which requires correction only after February and advances the date, day, and month simultaneously at midnight.
Rolex Returns to Calendar Complications After Seven Decades
The Perpetual Padellone represents Rolex's comeback to complex calendar watches. Outlook Luxe explains the watch is only the second Rolex ever built with a triple-calendar and moon-phase display — the first being the 36mm Oyster-cased Ref. 6062 from the 1950s. The launch coincides with the centenary of Rolex's iconic Oyster case.
Rolex officially adopted the Italian nickname 'Padellone' (meaning saucepan) for this new model rather than using it only as an informal historical reference. The saucepan-shaped case profile inspired the collector-given name that now appears on Rolex's spec sheet.
Advanced Engineering Inside a Slim Package
The new Calibre 7190 packs sophisticated technology into a thin 12.20mm case. Man of Many reports the movement features Rolex's Dynapulse escapement running at 5Hz frequency, a Syloxi hairspring, and a ceramic balance wheel. The Paraflex shock-absorption system protects the movement from impacts.
An instantaneous calendar mechanism uses a unidirectional coupling that allows gears to slip if the watch winds backward, preventing movement damage. This engineering detail protects the delicate calendar system during manual adjustment or accidental reverse winding.
Why It's Annual, Not Perpetual
Despite the 'Perpetual' name, the Padellone is an annual calendar, not a true perpetual calendar. This means it requires manual correction once per year after February because it does not automatically adjust for every month-length variation. The distinction matters for collectors: a true perpetual calendar would account for all month lengths without correction for decades.
The Haplos system simplifies the wearer's job by advancing the date, day, and month all at once at midnight. Only February demands human intervention, making it practical for daily wear despite its complex appearance.
A Vintage Design Meets Modern Watchmaking
The new Perpetual Padellone blends 1940s-inspired proportions with 21st-century innovation. A transparent case back reveals the Calibre 7190's architecture — something impossible on the original 1940s models. Mind Food notes this combines historical design cues with modern engineering refinement.
Rolex continues its Perpetual collection strategy, which launched the Perpetual 1908 in 2023. The Padellone joins that line as a sophisticated alternative to sports watches, targeting collectors who value complications and heritage over chronographs and dive watches.
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