Marni's Urban Spring Evolution
Designer Meryll Rogge infuses urban industrial edges into Marni's Spring 2027 Milan collection.
Anonymous
At Milan Fashion Week, Meryll Rogge presented her second Spring/Summer 2027 collection for Marni as an evolution of the house’s identity rather than a reinvention, retaining its playful contradictions and distinctive prints while giving them a more urban, industrial edge. The collection explored exposure and deconstruction through visible linings, cutouts, unfinished seams, and garments that turned underwear details outward. Rogge reworked Marni signatures and archive references with unconventional proportions, including outsized and miniature buckles and buttons, alongside leather shift and sack dresses, heavy satin, and modernistic embellishment. The lineup also featured vivid colors and layered looks; one report said it incorporated organic cotton, recycled fibers, and biodegradable yarns.
Key Points
1
The show notes framed the collection as “Discovery, for a new chapter,” and the presentation included a set designed to reveal what was present and what had been removed.
2
The collection’s silhouette was notably slim and tubular; individual looks included chest porthole cutouts secured with chunky belts and garments covered in Marni’s signature plastic discs.
3
The show closed with Mariacarla Boscono in a black leather shift dress traced with aquamarine beading. Rogge said Boscono was “such a huge part of the Marni history.”
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One account characterized the collection as younger and grungier than the Marni many viewers grew up with, and pointed to a fashion-oriented take on gorpcore as one of its themes.
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