Paris Designers Unveil Spring 2027 Collections With Eclectic And Political Statements

Before taking the Courrèges role, Drew Henry worked for Daniel Lee at Burberry, Jonathan Anderson, and Phoebe Philo at her label and Celine. He said he wanted to bring more eclecticism to the house, adding, “I struggle with the neatness and the cleanness.”
Henry revisited a tomato-red futuristic Courrèges cloche that had been stored in a hat box for decades; he found that it had previously appeared only in black-and-white fashion photography.
Antonin Tron said Balmain’s desert theme drew on philosopher Michel Foucault’s 1975 trip to the West Coast, including his experimentation with LSD in Death Valley. Tron described the desert as a setting for “expanding consciousness” and “disillusion.”
Ashish Gupta photographed his anniversary lookbook at Central Saint Martins, where he graduated in 2000. His placards included “Libraries Not Data Centres,” “It’s a Dress Not a Yes” and “UK Garage Not UK Farage”; he said the latter addressed the rise of the far right.
Paris Fashion Week saw three bold visions for Spring 2027. Drew Henry made his debut at Courrèges with playful clashing colors and eccentric hats rooted in the house's Space Age past. Antonin Tron sent desert-inspired designs down the Balmain runway, drawing on psychedelic culture and natural textures. Meanwhile, Ashish Gupta marked 25 years in fashion with 25 politicized looks that tackled protest, education, and the rise of far-right movements.
Before taking the Courrèges role, Henry worked under design leaders including Phoebe Philo and Jonathan Anderson. He wanted to shake up the house's traditional approach. "I struggle with the neatness and the cleanness," he said. Henry mixed undone styling, bold geometric stripes, and vivid colors in his debut collection.
Henry unearthed a tomato-red futuristic cloche from a hat box that had sat in storage for decades. The piece had appeared only in black-and-white photography before. Showing it in vivid color marked a fresh take on the house's 1960s heritage.
Tron drew inspiration from philosopher Michel Foucault's 1975 trip to California's desert, including Foucault's LSD experiments in Death Valley. The designer described the desert as a place for "expanding consciousness" and "disillusion." These ideas shaped textures, silhouettes, and accessories across the collection.
The American West and psychedelic culture wove through richly textured garments. Natural mineral forms influenced the palette and construction. Tron transformed abstract philosophical concepts into wearable pieces that felt both grounded and otherworldly.
Gupta marked his 25th anniversary in fashion with exactly 25 looks and hand-held placards. He shot the lookbook at Central Saint Martins, the London school where he graduated in 2000. Each slogan tackled serious issues with sharp wit and humor.
Placards read "Libraries Not Data Centres," "It's a Dress Not a Yes," and "UK Garage Not UK Farage." The last slogan directly addressed the rise of far-right politics in the UK. Gupta mixed protest messages with fashion, refusing to separate the two.
Publishers
16
Articles
27
Reach
43